Almost everything we eat, from salt to sausages, has come under the microscope. Yet we give little thought to flour. Flour is flour, isn’t it? Not so. As any baker will tell you, there is a world of difference between bland commercial and traditional stoneground varieties.

How is stoneground flour different? Commercial mills usually remove the wheat germ, a source of valuable oils, before milling, as it won’t withstand the heat generated by big rollers. As a result, the flour has a longer shelf life. Milling the grains slowly and gently with grinding stones keeps the goodness and flavours of the oils intact. At Bacheldre Watermill in Powys, Anne and Matt Scott produce an award-winning range of organic and traditional flours. Once milled, the flour is sieved through fine screens to remove the bran (the hard outer layer). “The finished flour is creamy white and still retains tiny flecks of brown, unlike some commercial white flour, which is bleached,” says Matt Scott. “Our stoneground wholemeal has none of the bran removed, and it has a wonderful vibrant taste. We also have a brown flour that has 19 per cent of the bran removed for people who find wholemeal too heavy.”

What is the difference between strong and plain flour? Strong flour (for breadmaking) and delicate plain flour (for cakes and sauces) are milled in the same way, but from grains with different protein levels. Strong flour needs to be high in protein so that the gluten develops when it is combined with water and yeast, keeping the dough elastic and helping it to rise. Plain flour needs to be low in protein. Says Scott: “Because we only mill a small quantity of flour at a time, we are able to cherry-pick the best parcels of grain, whereas industrial producers have to buy huge quantities from wherever they can, and if necessary add gluten to keep the consistency of the protein levels.”

What other flours are available? Many mills offer a range, from Italian durum wheat flour (high in protein and gluten for pasta-making) to nutty spelt, which is easy to digest. Some fascinating “flours” such as chestnut aren’t made from grains at all. One of the newest is the brainchild of Mark Walpole who formed Vinifera for Life in Canada. He uses grapes left over from winemaking for flours that retain the health benefits of the grape skins (including Cabernet and Chardonnay). Baker Richard Bertinet of the Bertinet Kitchen uses one in his book, Crust (Kyle Cathie, £19.99). “You have to combine it with white flour, but it gives a meaty, winey flavour to bread and a fantastic burgundy colour,” says Bertinet.

Where to buy:
Bacheldre Watermill (01588 620489; www.bacheldremill.co.uk).
Cabernet grape powder (£8.50/440g) from the Bertinet Kitchen (01225 445531; www.thebertinetkitchen.com).
Specialist flours from Shipton Mill (01666 505050; www.shipton-mill.com).

Readers' queries

Where can I find good, old-fashioned gingerbread?
Sarah Nelson’s Grasmere Gingerbread is legendary (01539 435428; www.grasmeregingerbread.co.uk).

If you have a food query, e-mail food.detective@thetimes.co.uk

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