What is it and where is it from?

Lincolnshire spinach, also known as Lincolnshire asparagus, or markery (a Lincolnshire dialect corruption of the word mercury), is a plant more widely known as goosefoot or Good King Henry, Chenopodium bonus-henricus.

What is its heritage?

This plant grows easily in cultivated ground over much of the UK and is often considered a weed. It has probably been used since the Iron Age in Britain, and there are several references to it as a pot herb in 16th and 17th-century books.

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In the late 19th century, the French gardening writer Vilmorin-Andrieux called it Lincolnshire Asparagus, commented that it was widely grown in the gardens of Lincolnshire farmers, and described it as "a good vegetable for the English". He was referring to eating the early shoots. Mrs Grieves, in her Modern Herbal (1931), commented on its use like spinach in Lincolnshire.

Eating Good King Henry seems to have been forgotten elswhere in the UK, but the habit is still common among older people living in rural communities in Lincolnshire, many of whom maintain a patch of it in their gardens.

What does it look and taste like?

The plant is perennial and grows about 50 - 80 cm high, with thickish, succulent dark green arrow-shaped leaves. The flavour is less pronounced than spinach.

How is it used?

A native plant which is an early provider of nutritious green shoots and leaves; pick shoots from mid-April to June, then leaves until the end of August. The plant can also be cut back in May for a second crop. Cook the shoots in bundles for about 7 minutes and serve with butter, like asparagus; use the leaves as a green vegetable or in soup, in a similar manner to spinach.

Where can I buy it?

The staff of the Victorian Kitchen Garden at Normanby Hall (Normanby Hall Country Park, Scunthorpe, N. Lincolnshire DN15 9HU, www.northlincs.gov.uk/normanby will cut and sell it from their vegetable garden if asked.

Otherwise it is difficult to purchase; it wilts easily when cut, has become unfashionable, and those who still use it tend to grow it for themselves, which can be done easily from seed.

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

© Laura Mason

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