What is it and where is it from?

The Old Gloucester is an ancient dual-purpose breed of cattle from the Cotswold Hills and Severn Valley.

What is its heritage?

Records of cattle fitting the general description of the Gloucester date back to the 13th century, making it one of Britain’s oldest breeds. At this time quality cheese was already being made from its milk.

Background

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It also became valued as a strong and docile draught ox and, as a final product, for beef. The “Old” part of the name is a more recent addition, and is an affectionate term rather than a reference to its long heritage. This affection is clear to see in all who keep them, the cattle's placid nature is remarked upon time and again.

Outbreaks of disease, the introduction of new breeds and the development of intensive farming methods all contributed to a dramatic decline in the number of Gloucester cattle, which had once been popular throughout southern England. By 1972 only one significant herd remained and the Gloucester Cattle Society was formed to save the breed from extinction.

Today there are around 75 herds throughout the UK, but they are still classed as “at risk” by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust. Reintroducing the public to the beef's special taste is the best chance for their continued survival and the objective behind the creation of the Old Gloucester Slow Food Presidium.

What does it look and taste like?

The Old Gloucester is black-brown in colour with a distinctive white stripe starting on the back and spreading down over the tail to cover the belly. It has fine, black tipped horns, often upturned.

In common with most native breeds it takes time to reach maturity, giving the beef a full, rich flavour, rather like oxtail. This is enhanced by hanging for four weeks which, coupled with its generous marbling of fat, ensures a succulent texture.

How is it used?

The beef is suitable for both fast and slow cooking, although it is probably through slow cooking the lesser-known joints that its special characteristics are best appreciated.

Where can I buy it?

From butchers accredited by the Rare Breeds Survival Trust’s Traditional Meat Marketing Company at www.tbmm.co.uk, or direct from Cowshill Farm near Lydney www.cowshillfarm.co.uk and Daylesford Organic Farmshop, near Kingham, in Gloucestershire.

Slow Food is an international eco-gastronomic movement which promotes the enjoyment and protection of locally grown produce. For more information on how to join your regional convivium and forthcoming events: www.slowfood.org.uk

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