Smoked haddock and cream are natural playmates. Please buy undyed, line-caught fish from a sustainable source.

Serves 3-4

500g undyed smoked haddock
2 big handfuls of spinach leaves (no stalks)
225ml double cream
A good pinch of cayenne
A generous grating of nutmeg
2 tsp dijon mustard
2 tsp lemon juice
6 tbsp finely grated parmesan cheese
2 big handfuls of breadcrumbs
Black pepper
Large knob of butter

Preheat the oven to 190C/375F/Gas Mark 5. Remove the skin from the haddock. I just pull hunks of flesh off with my fingers – not elegant, but practical. The hands-on approach also lets you discard any bones, which is important if you want to avoid the Heimlich manoeuvre. Place the fish in a buttered ovenproof dish.

Bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Throw in the spinach. As soon as it starts to boil, remove from the heat and drain. Cool under the cold tap, then squeeze hard with your hands to remove the moisture. Drape the spinach over the fish.

Whisk together the cream, spices, mustard, lemon and parmesan, then pour the mixture over the fish and spinach. Scatter with the breadcrumbs, season with pepper and dot with butter. Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes, until the fish is cooked through, the breadcrumbs are golden brown and the cream is bubbling and starting to catch around the edges. Serve with a green salad.

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