This is a smooth comfort for a night that isn’t quite as warm as you would like. If you want to gild the lily, sauté a few bits of shredded green leek in butter to throw on top at the end. Of all the risotto rices, I prefer carneroli, as I think it is the least easy to overcook.

Serves 2

1 litre chicken stock
A knob of butter
2 small leeks, white part only, finely chopped
200g carneroli rice
A small glass of dry vermouth (or dry white wine)
1 generously heaped tbsp mascarpone
A big handful of parmesan, plus extra to serve
Salt and pepper

Pour the stock into a saucepan and bring to a simmer.

In another largeish saucepan, melt a knob of butter. Add the leeks and sweat over a gentle heat for about 5 minutes until soft. Stir in the rice, until thoroughly coated in the butter. Turn up the heat a little and tip in the vermouth. Bring to bubble, then stir until most of the liquid has evaporated.

Add a ladleful of the hot stock and cook until it has been absorbed, stirring constantly. Add another ladleful and repeat. Carry on adding stock and stirring until the liquid has thickened and the rice is just al dente. It should be slightly resistant in the middle, but without any hard chalkiness. Don’t let it turn into pudding; the consistency should flow like slow-moving lava. Depending on the rice, the heat of the hob and the size of the pan, this should take 17-20 minutes.

When the rice is cooked, stir in the mascarpone and parmesan. Taste, season, cover, and leave for 4 minutes. Ladle into bowls and add more parmesan if you fancy it.

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