STRAWBERRIES are so good to eat on their own. If they are at room temperature rather than chilled; if they are unbruised, sweet and juicy; if they are promiscuously, gloriously bright; and if they are abundant, there is little else you need for a moment of pure summer joy.

Human nature being what it is, however, someone is always going to fiddle with perfection. And so we bathe them in liqueur, toss them in ground peppercorns and douse them in elderflower syrup. I have even tried to introduce strawberries into a savoury dish or salad, but balk, like a horse at the stable door, at the thought.

The noted strawberry risotto of northern Italy is an interesting deviation, but not one you want to eat twice. Prosciutto with strawberries? Cured ham is so much tastier with summer’s ripe, juicy melons, or even peaches. Strawberry, pineapple and langoustine salad? No, thanks. I prefer my strawberries waiting patiently for me to have at the end of the meal. The only exceptions to my hands-off rule are the recipes in this week-long salute to the British strawberry.



This luscious coconut-moist cake is sandwiched with strawberry jam and yoghurt and topped with — more strawberries, of course, in a perfect celebration of the perfect fruit.



Diary date: I shall be hosting tastings of new-season strawberries and giving summer entertaining tips at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly tomorrow, from noon to 1pm.




Prep: 15 mins
Cook: 45 mins

Serves 6 to 8

250g butter
250g caster sugar
4 x 60g eggs, cracked
250g self-raising flour, sifted

To serve
150ml strawberry jam
150ml light sour cream or crème fraiche
6 whole strawberries
Icing sugar

Method

Heat the oven to 180C/Gas 4. Butter two round 20cm (8in) nonstick cake tins. Cream the butter and sugar for five minutes until smooth, scraping down the sides once or twice. Add the eggs one by one, beating well after each addition. Sift in the flour, beating well. Divide between the cake pans, and bake for 30 minutes until an inserted skewer comes out clean. Cool and turn out on a wire rack.

To serve, place one cake on a serving platter and spread with the jam, then the sour cream. Top with remaining cake and dust with icing sugar. Pile the strawberries in the centre of the top cake.

ORDER GOOD COOKING By Jill Dupleix (Quadrille) from Times Books First for £13.99 (RRP £18.99) plus p&p. Call 0870 1608080 or visit www.timesonline.co.uk/booksfirst

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