Rachel Escott
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I had been nervous about getting lost and lasting the distance when I set out alone on a cycling tour of Umbria. Without a group leader or even a conventional guidebook, in testing times I feared my Italian would turn into Spanish and I would turn into a sobbing heap by the road.
But I had a secret ally. Zephyr Adventures, the company organising my holiday, offers nifty MP3 players you carry with you to play the informative, amusing or just plain rallying videos that flesh out the trip in a surprisingly effective way.
As I slogged up to the hilltop village of Montone on the second day, the voice of Allan Wright, the company president, echoing in my head and the memory of his reassuring smile were the only things keeping me going: “If the climb yesterday was 80 metres, this is twice that. A tougher hill, but nothing you can’t do.”
“Route talk” videos set the scene for each day, advising on the terrain, how to pace the day and where the best lunch or picnic stops are. For anyone used to using computer menus and arrow buttons on mobile phones or digital cameras, these gadgets are a cinch – and for any remaining novices, it’s easy to pick up. When you’re reclining on the pillows of the kind of friendly, family-run hotels at the end of each day, it’s easy, too, to trust Allan when he enthuses: “Today is going to be fantastic!”
Arriving for my holiday, I was met by an established local guide, Giovanni Ramaccione, who fitted me with my bike, panniers and helmet and showed me how to work the player. He also explained the written route directions which back up the videos – highly detailed and using a handy system of symbols that make it easy to absorb instructions even when you’re jolting along a farm track.
Giovanni is the star of the videos that I played whenever the film icon appeared in the directions. Then I would stop, find the right clip and watch and listen as Giovanni would lean against a wall, smile, make a joke and then hit me with some detail of craft production or rural politics. He is proud of the part he plays in introducing visitors to the back roads and hidden villages of Umbria and Tuscany, and in encouraging a wider understanding of its ecology and history.
“The Tiber river has made this primarily an agricultural area,” he explains, “but farm incomes have fallen. The most successful farms are turning organic, which helps the fauna. But tourism also is important, so we need people to enjoy holidays in a natural way.”
There’s a reassuring informality to the films, where slips of the tongue and occasional camera-shake aren’t edited out. The tours allow for different cycling abilities, except complete beginners. On most days longer options mean you can mix and match the rides according to how you feel, while taking in highlights such as Assisi, Bevagna and Spoleto. The shorter routes are between 30km (18.6 miles) and 60km, the longer options up to 100km in a day.
Unlike a guidebook, these videos managed to bring to life the character of the area and its people, and gave me a personal welcome to the country. Giovanni’s explanation of why so many farm properties lie empty in the Tiber valley wouldn’t make it into your average guidebook, for example. And although small and sometimes hard to see in bright sun, the sharpness of the screens made me feel Giovanni was an old friend by the end of the holiday. So when a video introduced me to a smiling Alessia Uccellini, architect, chef and co-owner of the Locanda Il Giglio restaurant in Sansepolcro, I didn’t hesitate to stride up and start chatting about her ambitions when we met in person.
On your bike
Rachel Escott travelled with Zephyr Self-Guided Adventures (001 888 758 8687, www.zephyradventures.com)
on the Umbria Green Heart of Italy tour: from US$1750 (about £860) for eight
days’ cycling in Umbria, including bike hire, portable media player, luggage
transport and B&B accommodation (single supplement $420), but not
flights.
The best cycling weather is May-June and September-October.
Getting there:
By train from London to Arezzo, the return fare starts at £155 booked through
Rail Europe (0870 8304862, www.raileurope.co.uk).
Ryanair (0871 2460000, www.ryanair.com)
flies from Stansted to Perugia from about £37 return.
Saddle up . . .
Bents Tours (01568 780800, www.bentstours.com)
has self-guided cycle rides in Europe.
CycleActive (01768 840400, www.cycleactive.co.uk)
runs group mountain-biking trips.
French Cycling Holidays (020-8861 5888, www.frenchcyclingholidays.com)
offers vineyard jaunts.
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If you like the idea of audio tours on your iPod or mp3 player, then you should visit:
www.tourdio.com - The Audio Tour Directory
They have links to hundreds of tours for all over the world.
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