EARLIER this year my friend Roger Fairbairn and I drove from London to South
Africa, a journey that lasted seven weeks and took us through 15 countries.
But it was one country, Sudan, that dominated our thoughts — before, during
and after the trip.
In the early days of preparation Sudan conjured up images of General Gordon,
famine, ethnic cleansing and war, but our drive through Africa’s largest
country showed that it was also an ancient land, home to the Sahara Desert,
the Nile, the historical city of Khartoum and some of the friendliest people
on earth.
In recent years travel through Sudan has been a hit-and-miss affair. Since
the country gained independence in 1956 it has been embroiled in
long-running civil wars.
Before we left we checked the Foreign and Commonwealth Office travel website,
which made depressing reading — it seemed that nowhere was safe. The advice
was against all travel to the Eritrean border in the east, the Chadian
border near Darfur in the west and most of southern Sudan.
Sudan is a troubled country. Skirmishing along the Eritrean and Central
African Republic borders has continued for years. But the worst conflict has
taken place in the past three years in Darfur, resulting in the deaths of up
to 200,000 people and claims of genocide.
Away from the fighting, however, there was a clear route for our trip. The
port of Wadi Halfa in northern Sudan was accessible from Egypt via Lake
Nasser. We would then be able to drive south through the Sahara to Dongola
and on to Khartoum, head eastwards for Gedaref and finally reach Metema on
the Ethiopian border. The journey was more than 1,500km (900 miles), much of
it desert.
We had been warned about bandits, so we chose our campsites carefully and
never drove at night. During the whole trip we saw only one gun (minus its
magazine) carried by a local policeman. The Sudanese take tourist safety
seriously and we had to register with the police in every village and town.
Sudan covers more than 2.5 million sq km (more than a quarter the size of the
US) and has an estimated population of 41 million. Its borders are shared
with nine countries and it is a melting pot of ethnic groups and cultures.
The first part of the journey was an uncomfortable 17-hour overnight trip on
the packed weekly ferry to Wadi Halfa. Our four-wheel drive travelled
separately on an old concrete barge, wedged between grain sacks and boxes,
arriving two days later. Our first impression of Sudan was flat brown desert
and one desolate rock with a solitary painted Arabic sign welcoming
visitors.
The desert drive to Khartoum took four days. We had no qualms about the
journey, just excitement and anticipation. It is possible to drive for hours
in the desert without seeing another soul, but invariably a truck packed
with waving locals would pass at some point during the day.
Our car had a Michelin map, first-aid kit, satellite phone and compass. We
carried tinned food, bread, water and travel sweets, even though the
smallest villages sold basic necessities.
In theory our route followed the Nile halfway to Khartoum, but the river
proved elusive for much of the journey. Only on occasion would we round a
corner and see its turquoise waters edged with a narrow strip of green
fertile land and palm trees.
The desert landscape, formed over hundreds of thousands of years, stretched as
far as the eye could see. The sky was cloudless, the sun relentless with
temperatures of at least 40C (104F). The route varied from fresh powder sand
and dunes to atrocious tracks with black volcanic rocks, corrugation and
loose shale. At night, under a jet sky sprinkled with diamonds, there was
nothing but silence and peace.
The villages we passed through were places of absolute simplicity. The
long-robed Nubians were patient, gentle and welcoming. Women in
bright-coloured saris would make deliciously sweet tea in tiny glasses and
we were continually invited to share food with the locals. At night the
towns came to life. Boarded-up wooden shacks were transformed into
supermarkets with shelves packed with cigarettes, sweets, tinned sardines
and soap. As we neared the capital the towns became neater, with mosques,
football grounds and houses painted in different colours.
Khartoum rose like a mirage out of the desert. It is one of the great
crossroads in the continent, where Arabia meets Africa. It was a world of
cars, neon lights and noise. The people showed the same kindness we had seen
throughout the country and welcomed us with open arms, chatting and offering
help and advice.
Sudan was the adventure of a lifetime. We drove through one of the last
frontiers and discovered a new land, culture and people. And, just briefly,
we were a tiny part of the Sahara Desert, a humbling and spiritual
experience.
Do’s and don’ts
Allow plenty of time to arrange visas.
Take US dollars — there are no ATMs.
Dress modestly — women should keep covered up.
Buy photographic permits in Wadi Halfa or Khartoum for archaeological sites.
Do not drink/carry alcohol.
