Nick Wyke
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After more than 30 years in the doldrums it seems that climate change, eco-awareness and re-gentrification are putting Britain’s seaside towns back on the map. As a result Britons are re-discovering the beauty of their own coastline.
The Jurassic Coast doesn’t have a palm-fringed sandbar lapped by turquoise seas. But, from shingle coves to sweeping sandy bays, it does have a beach to suit most tastes.
From Studland Bay to Exmouth, there are several decent-sized sandy beaches. Weymouth was given the seal of royal approval by King George III more than 200 years ago and has shallow waters and the sort of sand that makes great sandcastles. Portland Harbour, home to the London 2012 Olympic sailing events, is a hub for watersports, including scuba diving, kite surfing and kayaking. While Swanage is a family-friendly resort whose central beach, together with Sandy Bay at Exmouth, has the only other international standard blue flag award for well managed facilities and water cleanliness on the Jurassic Coast. That said, many of the beaches along the 95-mile Natural Heritage coast are recommended by the Marine Conservation Society, the highest standard for any UK award for bathing water quality.
Arguably the best of the lot, though, is Studland Bay, which offers a three-mile curve of beautiful sandy beaches with an unspoilt backdrop of heathland and dunes that comprises Studland National Nature Reserve.
The bay’s four main beaches are managed by the National Trust. Knoll Beach has a visitor centre, where wildlife (rare birds and deer) sightings are posted, a cafe and a watersports equipment hire shop. The children’s author Enid Blyton was a regular visitor to Knoll, a setting ripe for childhood adventures. Studland Bay is also home to Britain’s busiest naturist beach, which can be found between Knoll Beach and Shell Bay.
Shell Beach isn’t necessarily a Bounty-ad looker but it is a totally unspoilt beach - accessed by an old chain ferry from the mainland – with “green” self-composting WCs and fine views of the boats sailing in and out of Poole harbour.
Further along the coast, one of the area’s most popular beaches, Lulworth Cove, forms a practically perfect half-circle of shingle beach. It offers safe bathing in a sheltered bay and views of the now near-iconic Durdle Door, a natural arch of limestone rock overlooking the cove.
Instead of sand Ringstead Bay, between Lulworth and Weymouth, has 700 yards of shingle. But there’s more room to stretch out at this local’s favourite which offers archetypal Dorset views of chalky cliffs topped by rambling farmland.
For its geological intrigue – and the coast’s latest in a long line of literary connections as the setting of Ian McEwan’s latest novel - Chesil Beach’s 19-miles of shingle bank is one of the finest barrier beaches in the world.
For those who get restless sunbathing all day, Charmouth beach is one of the best places in Britain to root around for fossils. The nearby Heritage Coast Centre organises guided walks led by experts throughout the year that help you tap into the coast’s 185 million years of geological history.
Across the border in East Devon there are a couple of sandy coves near Pinn and Otterton and pebbly beaches at Beer, Branscombe and Budleigh Salterton. Ladram Bay has a backdrop of striking sandstone red cliffs and stacks, while Exmouth has a splendid sandy beach backed by high cliffs.
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