Iceland’s economic implosion hasn’t been pretty to watch, and it seems to have
taken a chunk of our own cash with it.
However, there is a way to get some money back which doesn’t involve sending
in the gunboats: go there on holiday. The collapsing currency means this
notoriously expensive destination is now half-price.
Two and a half years ago, you’d get about 100 kronur for £1. As this section
went to press, it was about 200 - so a beer costs £3 rather than £6, and you
can get an edible meal for £10 a head. Still not cheap, but handing over the
cash will make you sigh, rather than cry. Here are some suggestions for a
great Icelandic break in the coming months. Prices are worked out on a
200-kronur-to-the-pound basis.
REYKJAVIK RUNTUR
Reykjavik rocks. The music scene’s great, the bar scene’s even better, and the
fabled runtur - the good-natured, allnight weekend pub crawl beloved of the
locals - is unlikely to quieten down just because the economy’s imploding.
Vikings are made of sterner stuff than that.
For good value, it would be hard to beat some of the deals that tour operators
are now offering. Regent (0845 277 3301, www.regent-iceland.com
) has knocked more than 25% off three nights’ B&B at the four-star
Hilton Nordica; it’s down from £485 to £359, including flights. And
Icelandair Holidays (0800 988 9989, www.icelandair.co.uk
) has three-night breaks at the three-star Hotel Cabin down from £249 to
£199.
Once you’re there, you’ll want to eat at Orange (Geirsgata 9; 00 354-561 1111, www.orange.is
), the city’s newest and faddiest restaurant: the cocktails are made in a
laboratory, a “mad scientist” roams the tables and the signature pudding is
futuristic ice cream, made at your table with liquid nitrogen. Great fun,
with mains from £19. Other trendy spots include Fish Market (www.fiskmarkadurinn.is
) and Silfur (www.silfur.is ).
And afterwards? Reykjavik’s many beautiful people are drinking, dancing and
being seen at B5 (Bankastraeti 5), Cafe Solon (a short stagger away at 7a),
Boston (Laugavegur 28b, where Björk’s personal chef has opened a restaurant)
and an old favourite, Kaffibarin (Damon Albarn’s bar at Bergstadastraeti 1).
Recover the next day with a steamy outdoor soak at the Blue Lagoon (£11.50; www.bluelagoon.com
).
GEYSERS AND WATERFALLS
The countryside around Reykjavik has a trio of wonders, all within a few miles
of each other: the Geysir geothermal area, where boiling water spouts a
hundred feet into the air, the majestic Gullfoss falls, where millions of
foaming gallons pour down a canyon lined with organ-pipe basalt columns, and
the Thingvellir National Park, a spectacular rift valley where Iceland’s
first parliament was established nearly 1,100 years ago. You can do the
whole lot on a day-trip bus tour with Reykjavik Excursions (£42; www.re.is
), but they’re worth more of your time. To be there after the trippers have
gone, stay a night or two at the Hotel Valholl (www.hotelvalholl.is
; doubles from £85), in the heart of the Thingvellir. You’ll need a car -
just take care on the roads, many of which are unsealed. Try www.icelandcar.com
, which has compacts for about £40 a day, picking up at Reykjavik airport.
GET ACTIVE
It’s getting seriously chilly, but do the Vikings let that stop them heading
out into the wilds? Do they hell. They defiantly hike, snowmobile, ice-climb
or even dive. Yes, dive.
Local outfit Dive.is (www.dive.is ,
naturally) will take you for an extraordinary dip into Silfra, a
crystal-clear lake where two continents meet: at the bottom, you can inspect
the crack formed where the European and American tectonic plates are being
slowly wrenched apart. It’s seriously beautiful, if rather spooky. Tobias
and his crew supply guiding and gear, including the warmest of dry suits, as
well as transfers from a Reykjavik hotel, for £195. Or go for a snorkel
(£117), in water so pure you can see everything and even drink while you’re
floating.
As the mercury drops, dozens of highland waterfalls freeze solid. Mountain
Guides (www.mountainguides.is )
will coach beginners up the sheer ice for £75, picking up in Reykjavik.
For hikers, the Snaefellsnes peninsula and the Thingvellir park are especially
rewarding - but the unpredictable and often bitter weather means it’s safer
to have expert guidance. Mountain Guides runs day hikes from the capital and
a more challenging five-day yomp across the glaciers, peaks and volcanic
moon-scapes of the south; the price is £545, including guiding, meals and
accommodation.
If that sounds like hard work, then how about snowmobiling across a glacier?
Superjeep (www.superjeep.is ) will
take you into the southern highlands in its mega-4WD, ending at
Myrdalsjokull for a high-speed snowcat buzz across the ice (bring your
driving licence). It’s £175 for the day, picking up in Reykjavik.
DRIVE TO THE WEST
Much of the country outside the capital all but shuts down for the winter, but
splendid isolation is still possible if you head west to the dramatic
Snaefellsnes peninsula. Three good reasons to go: ruggedly beautiful
scenery; the northern lights, which shine out on clear evenings from now
until March; and the heart-warmingly cosy Hotel Budir (www.hotelbudir.is
; doubles from £82), an enchanting traditional timber house built between a
lava field and the raging Atlantic in 1836. It’s at the end of the earth,
but it still has a classy restaurant. Beat that. For car hire, try www.icelandcar.com
.
Getting there: with Icelandair (www.icelandair.co.uk
), returns to Reykjavik from Heathrow start at about £190. The no-frills
outfit Iceland Express (www.icelandexpress.com
) flies from Stansted from £138; under12s travel half-price.
Crooked bankers... PMs of two countries, in need of a scapegoat to divert attention from their own failures... so what else is new? To quote The Big Lebowski: "This aggression will not stand, man." I'm an Icelander in the US, and the next Briton I see at the bar gets a drink on me.
Gudmundur, Tampa, USA
I totally agree with you Joi.
I wish to apologise for Brown's inappropriate bullying reaction
It was wrong to use anti terrorist legislation to freeze Icelandic assests.
Perhaps he should freeze US assets and try to extradite those crooked bankers and dealers who sold us the dud stocks!!!!!!
vincent, liverpool, UK
Well said Keith. It is just a matter of time before Joi grows to understand what a mess they are in. Joi, your country is in an utter mess, and it is not our fault... it is yours. Best of luck
Richard, London, England
Reykjavik is 1 of the best places in the world to visit... i thouroughly reccomend it: excellent bars & restaurants, plenty to do & the women... i would be over there visiting again (it's been 6 years and that is too long) if i wasn't traveling the otherside of the world just now!
Andrew, Glasgow/Melbourne, Scotland/Australia
Hang on! You cite in your first paragraph they have taken money from us, yet you encourage us to go over and give them more!? Thanks, but I'd rather travel to Iraq or Afganistan. Rather give them money to build their economy/infrastructure.
Blunt, Cheltenham, UK
Don't forget the 1000 kronur Minke whale fillets from a little restaurant down by the harbour. Very nice and this whale species is less endangered than most North Sea fish species so you can eat them without feeling too guilty.
David , Edinburgh, U.K.
Joi, I suspect the article is designed to entice us to come to your cold overpriced country to help it get back on it's feet. Not too sure you fully understood this. Oh, and can you stop wrecking our football teams and give us our fish back.
richard, Huntingdon, Cambs
Is there a place I can go to look at dormant volcanos and eat boiled haddock?
Jim, Chicago, USA
Seems harsh that I wouldn't be welcome in Iceland, I'm British but I don't have a say in the decisions of government, i'm only a humble postman.
People should realise that irrespective of nationality most of us want to lead a simple life.
Politicians/captains of industry are the enemy.
J Whiteside, Lytham,Lancashire, England
Joi, in the UK, we have an expression - "Don't not bite the hand that feeds"
keith, bromley, uk
No, we did NOT nick your cash. Considering the hostile action of H. M. Gov't towards Icelandic nationals - threating to seize assets of Icelanders in the U.K. just because they are Icelandic, regardless off links to the banks involved, don't think that Brits are particularly welcome here.
joi, Reykjavík, Iceland