If I get lost trying to get from Times Square to DUMBO, it's only logical to
assume you would too. So as a report for a local paper, out comes the
notebook, and I start jotting stuff down. It only takes a few months to
assemble an Encounter guide, but the truth is, I work on them year round.
Having you here - seeing you here - is a constant reminder of why this
guidebook has to be as sharp and accurate as possible. If you're just
dropping in for a quick visit, chances are you want to know the fastest
routes, the low-hassle experiences, the must-see attractions and somehow
cram in a few only-in-New-York moments.
When I have friends pop in for a quick dose of city living and culture, I send
them to these out-of-the-way charmers where they're sure to meet some locals
while avoiding long lines. For art lovers, instead of Museum Mile on the
Upper East Side, head way, way north to the Hispanic
Society in Washington Heights (closed Monday).
It will be mobbed when it finally finds the downtown home it's actively
searching for, but as of right now, you can still wander (for free) among
its fine collection of Spanish Old Masters, including Velasquez, Goya and El
Greco without seeing a soul most days.
If that's too far away, there are two underrated gems in Lower Manhattan that
are usually crowd-free: the Lower East
Side Tenement Museum, offering vivid tours through the crowded
conditions suffered by generations of early Jewish immigrants, and the Ukrainian
Museum, full of arts, crafts, paintings and drawings by ex-pat artists
of all ages.
Plus, it's right in the middle of the East Village, where you'll want to grab
a cappucino at Chez Betty (254 East 3rd St), a glossy and relaxing bistro
run by genial French owner Shilat, or rub elbows with resident characters
over a pint at 11th St. Bar (510 East 11th, 212-983-3929).
Favorite low-key eatery Awash (947 Amsterdam Ave) serves the city's best
Ethiopian in the shadow of our Gothic wonder, St. John the Divine Cathedral
at 110th St on the Upper West Side. Down by City Hall, Blaue Gans (139 Duane
St) dishes up plump Austrian schnitzels and delectable sacher torte to
everyone from Mayor Mike Bloomberg to the security guards who stand sentinel
at his office door.
When in doubt, I send people to walk around Nolita. If none of the Brazilian,
Japanese, American-French fusion or Australian restaurants that line those
streets appeal, Chinatown and Little Italy are both just a few blocks away.
To be perfectly frank, there are so many fantastic places in New York City,
you really only need me to point you in the right direction. Once you start
walking around the fabulous 'nabes, as we call our various communities,
discoveries await on every corner. No matter how long you've lived here, or
how often you visit, you can never discount the city's the surprise factor.
Sure, NYC can be a beast - I curse our antiquated subway system daily, shake
my impotent fists at the skyrocketing rents, rail at the gas-guzzling
traffic jams. But amid all the jostling hurly burly life, I still have
experiences that stop me dead in my tracks, and - I guarantee it - you will
too.
Just a few days ago, running from one appointment to another, a massive
rainstorm kicked up. The darkest clouds I've ever seen blotted out the
skies, turning midtown's glass buildings from bright silver to malevolent
gray. I felt like I'd stepped into a modern-day Grimm's fairy tale.
Torrential rains pummeled the streets as I took shelter underneath a
vendor's awning. He wordlessly handed me a pretzel and we both watched the
chaos unfold: people jumping for taxis, leaping puddles, squealing and
running down the streets.
The pelting sounds made conversation impossible, but once, as a big wind
whipped and rattled the bright red neon jewelers sign down the block,
threatening to send it careening into the crowds, he turned and looked me
in the eye. I knew what he was thinking -- the same thing I was: man, I love
New York.
