Katherine Adams
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Set in a converted fisherman’s house in the town of Portstewart, this small and friendly 30-bed hostel is great for young or older travellers on a budget.
Arriving at around 6pm, my friend and I were greeted with a note saying: “Welcome to Rick’s. Please make yourself at home.” Luckily, we had booked our beds the night before and our names were written on a white board in the hallway stating which room we were in. However, with a welcome like this no doubt almost anybody could have walked in - security leaves a lot to be desired.
We battled past the non-English speaking cleaner busy at work in the corridor to find our room which, unlike so many backpacker hostels, was spacious and light.
With three bunks, a sink and a free locker each, the room was pleasant enough. While almost every room is advertised as having a sea view, ours overlooked the back yard, where the owners were evidently living, and the front road where admittedly the sea could be seen, but only by opening the window, leaning out and risking life and limb to catch a glimpse of the blustery Atlantic.
After an evening stroll on the Portstewart strand, the National Trust-owned beach that currently holds the coveted Blue and Yellow flag awards, we dined at Morelli’s, now a Northern Irish institution with the best ice cream in town.
Then, at 9pm something very strange happened. While a sleepy fishing village by day, by night Portstewart transformed into a warm up for Silverstone. Leagues of teenagers in their severely "pimped" cars stormed up and down the sea front, their 1.2 litre cars bouncing with base and filled with youths wielding water pistols at unsuspecting passers-by.
Returning to the hostel, wet and soggy and in need of comfort, Rick was on hand to greet us at last. With a gentle northern Irish accent and polite to the core, he shook our hands and welcomed us to his home. After making a cup of tea he informed us of all the activities to do nearby and, when we had forgotten to get cash out, he didn’t mind accepting our measly £10.50 the following day.
The kitchen was large and homely, the living room cosy and cluttered. Being that Rick and his family appear to live in the hostel, you do feel a bit like you’re imposing but his rare appearances during the day kept that feeling to a minimum.
Another unique aspect of this hostel was the vast age range of Rick’s guests. Gap year students beware because this is a place much more likely to attract your parents than your friends. We put this down to the homeliness and relaxed atmosphere of both hostel and town, where drinking was a rarity and most of the young people were too busy driving their cars around the town to bother about pubs and clubs.
The bathroom facilities were basic but adequate and shampoo and shower gel were available to those travellers running short, an inexpensive touch that made a big difference.
The large kitchen and dining room enabled us to have a relaxed breakfast with no pressure from Rick to get us out by a specific time.
Most visitors who have written reviews on Tripadvisor.co.uk have rated the hostel five stars, highlighting the homeliness of the place and the friendly staff. One reviewer said: "Rick has furnished the place more like a home than a hostel,” a view I have to agree with.
Just a 30-minute drive from the Giant's Causeway, Bushmills Whiskey Distillery and Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge, Rick’s is an ideal base for a cheap weekend north of Belfast.
Bottom line: Ensuite private bedrooms cost £16pp while a standard private bedroom costs £13pp. Dorm-bed rooms cost £10.50 a night, sharing with a maximum of five other people.
Best thing: the relaxed atmosphere, cosy lounge and good value
Worst thing: the mattresses which were old and uncomfortable
Access all areas: the hostel is based on four floors and rooms are only accessible by stairs
Need to know: Ricks Causeway Coast Hostel, 4 Victoria Terrace, Portstewart, BT55 7BA; tel. 028 708 33789
Service: 8 out of 10
Room: 6 out of 10
Value: 9 out of 10
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